Sunday, February 10, 2008

Chapter Two: On the Autonomous Zapatista Highway


The route from Palenque to our next destination in the Lagos de Montebello region would take us on a new course, south and west on a secondary highway through Ocosingo. Fittingly, just a few days after we were left out of work early due to a huge anti-NAFTA demonstration in Mexico City, we found ourselves in the heart of Zapatista country. The Zapatistas are a leftist guerilla movement that came into the public eye on the day of NAFTA's debut in January 1994 when the group's army occupied several towns in Chiapas, resulting in a stand-off with the Mexican army and 150 killed.

Since that time, Subcomandante Marcos, the university professor leader of the group, became a relatively high profile revolutionary, attracting international interest.


Along with anti-globalization, the group advocates for indigenous land rights and autonomy and in the late 90s there were a series of bloody confrontations between Chiapas villagers aligned with the Zapatistas and the Mexican army. Zapatista action has receded somewhat in recent years, and while they continue to be influential in Chiapas, there has been a decided downturn in violence. Oh, and apparently the group's leader, Subcomandante Marcos now goes by Subdelegado Zero.

There's lots to read about the area and its politics on the world wide web.

As we drove through the beautiful countryside, we noted not only the isolation of the area but also the occasional Zapatista-run schools and hospitals, not to mention signs proclaiming town affiliations with the group, testifying to their continuing presence. Chiapas has a high indigenous population, something like 1/4 of the population identify as one of nearly a dozen distinct indigenous groups with their own languages and traditions. We saw loads of traditional dress among the women and children, for example, and overheard many folks who weren't using Spanish at all.



The drive South was glorious. The air was extraordinary compared to home, and the sun was incredibly strong and bright.

We stopped in Ocosingo, about halfway to La Trinitaria for a meal and a poke around. Ocosingo is a valley market town linking the rural villages in the surrounding mountains and was bustling when we rolled up.


We visited the church and were struck by a gorgeous display of flowers and candles at the altar. We learned that there had been a funeral there earlier that day.



We had some really tasty food at the main hotel in town where we sat on the porch and watched the zocalo traffic go by.


We finished off our little sidetrip with a walk around the square with a butterscotch-flavored popsicle. And then, on the road again...

Traffic jams were of the livestock variety:


And roadside supercenters were replaced by coolers in lean-to sheds, manned by children.
This entire-store is child-sized. Or is Sergio merely enormous?

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